Burger 91 Day 85: Maverick's Country Bar and Grill, Forest Fire Burger

Approaching at night, Maverick’s parking lot is dark and unlit. No exterior lighting accents the large building. But the parking lot is large and crowded with cars. It has the feeling of the guilt flooded parking lots of upscale strip clubs on the outskirts of Dallas. Dark enough to hide your car from being noticed by passing family or coworkers. Dim enough doorways to feel anonymous and thereby inviting to those craving an experience not totally condoned by their peers. At least not publicly. At least not talked about openly.

Inside is a large bar set up higher than the rest of the space. Above it a gigantic ornamental wagon wheel adorned with cow skulls. Photos of John Wayne peer down from the walls. There is the encroaching scent of leather conditioner like the smell of walking through a cowboy boot store. But I counted exactly zero boots in the establishment.

The beer menu is a laminated menu that hasn’t been changed for a couple seasons, requiring the bartender to clarify which of the local craft seasonal varieties they were actually serving. Not that it mattered. I was sticking with Coors Light.

The bar was 80% men, most awkwardly buried in their phones and ignoring the people around them and the football games on TV. The few women there were deep in conversation and expressing delight at having somebody feigning interest in their lives. The closest to me spent a solid 40 minutes talking about agricultural soil additions. She was probably the closest to a real cowboy in the entire place. Especially when she deftly moved from soil amendments to 2nd Amendment, talking about the constitution she always carries with her along with her revolver, eternally loaded with hollow points.

Maverick’s is a theme bar for those wanting to play cowboy. The place I grew up would apply the phrase “all hat and no cattle” to such a joint.

That shouldn’t interfere with their burgers. But it does. They’ve got a wide selection of carefully thought out burger options and give the presence of knowing what a hearty burger is all about. Instead, it’s overcooked frozen meat, lumpy greasy cheese, pickled jalapenos, and a weak and crumbling bun. The exception are the fries, which are the beer battered crunchy wonderfulness of a particular style I haven’t seen since a place in Texas actually called “Posse East.”

So they got at least that much cowboy correct.

Metrics
Score: 2 of 5
Price: $10 with fries
Beer: Coors Light
Bonus: another Hong Kong Restaurant recommendation
Bonus bonus: try to go there and not be thinking this the entire time:

Image result for maverick sarah palin

 

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